About the Author

Benjamin Marcus started is surfing in Santa Cruz, California, in the 1970s, when surfing was a simpler thing than it is now; no surf cameras or funky wetsuits, just the pleasures of single-finned surfboards and leashes made from bungee cord. In the 1980s, Ben travelled the world looking for waves and visited Fiji, Australia, New Zealand, Hawaii, Mexico, France, Spain and Portugal in his quest. After leaving Surfer magazine in 1998, Ben went nomadic again, traveliing around in his van, looking for something to do. In 2004 he landed in Malibu, where he began writing surf books.